| If you have a high horsepower z, or a z convertible, or if you're installing a body kit then you need to reinforce and stiffen the frame. We custom make these units ourselves to rigid specifications. You'll never have frame flex again once you've installed our frame connector kit. We have lots of pics on file of these units. Sometimes we have these units in stock ready to go and sometimes we build these kits as they're ordered, which usually only takes us a few days, depending on how busy the shop is. For the time being, we have our stage one and stage two kits already built, in stock and ready to go as of 01/31/11. We've figured out a way to streamline our production procedures on these kits, without sacrificing any of the strength or quality. The end result is we're able to produce these kits more efficiently and faster which allows us to sell them to you at a new much lower price.
All z’s have a problem of frame flex even if you don’t have a high horsepower engine in your z. Ever seen the crack above the quarter window appear in your z? That’s a prime example of frame flex, and there are plenty of other spots that crack as well. If these cars suffer from frame flex with a stock engine, just imagine how bad it gets under somewhat extreme cases such as high horsepower applications or if you like to launch off the line or grab gears. If you have or are making your z into a convertible then you need these connectors even more. Frame flex will be a thing of the past once you’ve installed these units on your z. There is a good reason why we call them bullet proof. When you pull up onto a driveway slowly you can hear the interior panels creaking, this is caused from frame flex. We’ve seen numerous cars through the years that have been used to drag race and the doors don’t fit anymore, the frame is bent or cracked, the body has cracks in it, and in some cases the windshield has come loose. Definently not a good thing to have happen to any z car. We've also seen plenty of totally stock z's that crack on the A and C pillars as well. FYI, in case you haven’t already looked under your z, the frame doesn’t go full length on the floor pan. In the case of the 240’s and early 260’s, there is over a 2 foot gap from the frame rail to the nearest frame piece by the rear tires. In the case of the 280’s there is about a 1 foot gap. The floor pan is actually used for part of the frame. The frames and the floor pans are only made out of fairly thin gauge steel, which is typical for most unibody construction. They are very inadequate especially if you’re bumping up your horsepower,. If you’re running more than 150 horse to the rear wheels you need these connectors to protect your car. Sheet metal is just not adequate to stiffen a car’s frame, that’s we go to such great lengths to hand build each one of these units. Frame connectors made out of sheet metal are also very inadequate. We now have the perfect solution and we make them onsite. We have 2 different versions of sub frame connectors for all first generation coupe z’s. Our Stage 1 kit comes with 2 box steel frame connectors that are custom made to fit your z, and numerous small metal plates that go inside the car to sandwich the connectors onto the cars existing frame. Our stage 2 kit is the same as the first one except that it includes an "X" member that bolts onto the 2 frame connectors giving you even more strength and that also works as a front driveline shield and we’ve added a rear driveline shield as well. There is no way that your car can ever flex again in the middle, even if you’re running 600+ horse. If you have a stage 1 kit, the X member will not fit it without modifications. If you want the X member you must order the stage 2 kit. The new connectors fit very snugly over your existing frame rails. Tight is good in this case. Then we have predrilled holes at certain spots on the connectors that you use to mark the spots to drill through your floor pans. Then you can literally bolt on these frames connectors and tighten them down using the small steel plates on the inside for extra support. These frame connectors will strengthen the car a lot by just bolting them on, although we do recommend welding them afterwards for maximum strength. This not only insures a tight fit, but it also allows the do it yourselfer (that can’t weld) to install them on his or her z, and then take the car to a welding shop and have them finished, saving them money. After that you can weld them onto the car, remove the bolts, and weld up the holes. At that time you then paint the new rails, caulk as needed and undercoat as needed. Picture is of a 240 stage 2 kit. The stage 1 kit is the posted price, for the stage 2 kit add 150.00 US. The kit is sitting on the ground in the same position as it would be when installed on your z. The right side in the pic is towards the front of the car. The front part fastens to the part of the frame that your T/C rods (also known as strut rods) and in the back they fasten to the first part of framing that goes from left to right, just after where a rear sway bar would mount. No clearance problems with these kits either. We give you lots of room for everything else. These kits don’t weigh much either. The 240 stage 2 kit weighs in at a mere 42 pounds. The stage 1 kits are about 10 pounds lighter. With either of these kits your z can now handle as much power as you can put under it’s hood. Last update 06/11 | 
